Exterior Staining

Some Practical Advice

• Make sure the wood is dry- Most moisture content should be less than 18%, if the wood is new.  Park City is generally a very dry environment, but there are some occasions where water is present all year long which contributes to wood erosion, rot and decay.
• Make sure water doesn’t stand or penetrate- To prevent moisture, snow, rain from penetrating the back of siding, windows use sealant or caulking. 
• Replace wood if it has noticeable problems with rotted, decayed or eroded characteristics, however sometimes a through sanding reveals new fresh wood below the surface.
• If the wood has a natural finish, make sure it is washed for contaminants like: mildew, soot, rust, tannin bleed, organic matter or old oil byproducts.  Use a wood brightener, many products suggest they clean wood, but only a few products will clean and brighten at the same time.
• Spraying is a quick method of applying the material, but it commonly leads to over application.  90% of DIY projects over apply stain which leads to premature failure. Make sure to back brush all of the material, wood is not universally porous.  Some of the grain will readily take a large amount of material, while other surfaces will require only a small amount of stain (hard grain, or tight grain).
• Coverage is widely varied from 120 square feet per gallon to over 450 square feet per gallon.  So knowing how much stain will be needed maybe next to impossible without a test area on all four sides of the building.
• Pump sprayers are under rated- Most stains can be applied with a garden pump sprayer to speed up the process and then back brushed.
• Choose the right opacity

1. Solid Stains- offer total coverage and give maximum protection
2. Semi-Solid Stains- generally have extra pigment and over a uniform look
3. Semi-Transparent- lightly pigmented for increased protection and color
4. Translucent stain- soft tones for natural beauty and amplified wood character
5. Clear Stains- Water Repellency and Moisture resistance, little to no UV protection.

• Custom Colors will be necessary.  We never use box colors; your project will need a custom color.  If it’s wood, it will need color theory, application advice, and a custom color formula.
• Sanding to new wood will provide the best possible finish, but it’s rarely ever performed.
• TEST, TEST, TEST.  Before investing hours and hundreds of dollars, make sure the results are beyond satisfactory.  How will the product look in 1, 2 or 3 years from today?
• The beauty of wood- Remember that wood is a natural product full of natural variations.  The finished appearance of wood depends on the species, pretreatment options, prior condition, exposure to water or oil, and even two pieces of the same species will provide different results.
• Stand Back- How the color will look from a distance.  If you are selecting a color for the entire home, stand back and look at the color from a distance 50 to 75 feet will generally reveal an entirely different color.
• Get some professional color help.  Find a professional to help you select a color, they will generally do this for a very modest amount and many will help for free.